Saturday, September 27, 2014

Girls' (and Boy's) Weekend in "The Pearl of the Orient"

This past weekend was again a long weekend for us. While my husband flew off to Manila for a grueling three-day IB training, and endured a nearby active volcano and some heavy rains and flooding, my son and I played hookie from school on Thursday and flew to Penang, Malaysia, for a little holiday weekend with my friend, J.

Penang, also known as "The Pearl of the Orient," was fabulous. It is a beautiful place with an amazing culture influenced by the west, China, and India, just to name a few. There were such eclectic mixes in its architecture, food, and languages. I heard Mandarin Chinese that mixed with what sounded like Malay, which was interesting because I could understand parts of sentences, but not others. I also heard some language that sounded like Taiwanese, but not quite; Hindi; Malay; and English, just to name a few. We ate all kinds of foods and saw people of all colors and ethnic groups.

I also loved how international everyone seemed to be. Many people who talked to me were fascinated by my history of having been born in Taiwan and raised in the U.S., and now living in Thailand. J, while at the Bangkok airport, met a Pakistani gems dealer who was living in Bangkok. While in Penang, we met and hung out with a man who appeared to be from this part of the world, with Krishna as his name, but who identified himself as Jamaican, and who had been living in Madrid for the past 13 years, teaching English at a university there. It was just so cool to see and meet people who are truly global.

This was the first time I had ever gone on an overnight trip alone with my son, and it was our first multiple-day trip overseas without my husband. Traveling by myself with my son was a very different experience from traveling as a family. For one, everyone, from taxi drivers to shop owners to fellow passengers on our flights, stared curiously at me -- it isn't every day here that one sees a woman, especially an Asian woman, traveling with a child by herself. Many people asked me where my husband was and what I was doing in Penang -- questions that no one ever asked when we traveled as a family.

Also, without my husband around, more strangers approached us and talked to us, asking where we were from, what we were doing in Penang, etc. Many people also were much more open with their affection towards my son. When we traveled together as a family, people would look at my son and smile, maybe approach him timidly to give him a high five or a treat. This time, many people would just come up to us and hug my son, pick him up, and talk to him as if they were familiar with him. At the restaurant where we had breakfast on Saturday, three men who worked there just went up to him and took turns picking him up and taking pictures with him! I told my son that I would ask them to leave if he felt uncomfortable, but he seemed to enjoy the attention. I also took a picture of him with the three men, but I know the entire interaction would never have happened had my husband been with us. It was just fascinating how differently people saw and treated us just because my husband wasn't there.

We stayed at Segara Ninda, a colonial building with traditional Malay motifs that dates back to the 19th century, that is located in George Town, the capital of Penang. It once belonged to Ku Din Ku Meh, the governor and king of Satun, Thailand. The rooms were very simple and utilitarian, but comfortable.

Our first full day in Penang, Friday, was spent in Penang Hill, the highest point of Penang, which could be reached by foot or in a funicular, and where we spent most of our day. It was on our way here, on a bus, that my friend, J, struck up a conversation with Krishna, who ended up hanging out with us for quite a bit. He even had me take pictures of him, J, and my son, We lost track of him after a while, and never got his contact information, so he now has pictures of people whom he will likely never see again.

The view on Penang Hill was gorgeous, and the air was so amazingly crisp and fresh, which is rare in this part of the world. The top was quite extensive, with a Hindu temple, a mosque, a playground, an owl museum, and a great area for kids with zip lining and climbing walls. My son loved that area so much he did all the activities five times!

We also spent some time at Kek Lok Si Buddhist Temple (Temple of Supeme Bliss), which is the highest temple in Penang. It was extensive with a gorgeous view of the mountainsides and the town below. An inclined lift took us up even higher, where there was a 99-foot statue of Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy.

Saturday, our second day, didn't start out so well. Our original plan was to take the bus out of town to the national park, then visit the spice garden and butterfly farm. But J woke up with a slight migraine and decided to stay in her room to rest, so my son and I headed out of town alone to go to the butterfly garden. It was a timely excursion because my son's class had been studying butterflies the previous week. We had a lot of fun seeing all the butterflies and other creatures. There also was a show in which my son was chosen to be participate by walking around and showing the audience a leaf bug.

Later that day, after we returned to our guesthouse and J was feeling better, we took a self-guided walking tour around George Town, passing through Little India and Chinatown, happening upon and enjoying the sights and sounds of an amazing street festival at dusk, walking past Fort Cornwallis by the water, finding yet another park and playground, seeing street art, and just soaking up the general awesomeness of the city.

On Sunday, my son and I were left to our own devices because J's flight home was at 8:00 a.m. Because it was Sunday, most places were closed, so we just walked around some more looking for more street art, and returned to the playground for a little while. We came upon another street fair and stayed there for a while until it began to drizzle. At that point, we hurried back towards our guesthouse to get some lunch, then returned to the guesthouse, where the proprietor was kind enough to allow us back to our room (even though we had already checked out) to hang out until our taxi came to take us to the airport for our 7:00 p.m. flight.

We had a great weekend in Penang, and it was so nice to get away. We didn't get home until 8:30 on Sunday night, though, so Monday morning was a little rough. My husband had it even worse -- he had his third full day of training on Sunday, and didn't even get home until midnight on Sunday night. All in all, it was a fun and successful weekend away for all of us.
Segara Ninda, where we stayed. Our room was in the back, to the left of the building, where the little light is in the picture.
Penang Hill, the highest point in Penang.
Going up in the funicular.
The ride up took five minutes!
The view from that house must be spectacular.
The view with the funicular going down.
This picture fails to convey the beauty of the scenery.
Walking around at the top.
Shops and snack bars at the top.
Where do you want to go?
Hindu temple at the top of Penang Hill.
Playground at Penang Hill.
View of the mountains and attractions below.
A mosque.
The beginning of the play area.
Zip lining was one his favorite activities.
There were four levels of climbing, and he did all four five times.
This was the easiest level.
This was the hardest level.
Ringing the bell at the top.
The end.

At the owl museum.
Wood carvings of owls from all over the world.
Owl art.
Taking a break with mango ice. YUM!
At Kek Lok Si Buddhist Temple.
Inside the main temple.
Wish ribons for 1RM each. My son picked one for his wish to come true.
Wish ribbons from visitors.
Wish ribbon tree.
I have not seen one of these since I was a little girl in Taiwan.
It's not hard to feel spiritual with a view like that.
The second character of my son's Chinese name, made with coconut shell.
Ceiling of the temple.
Kek Lok Si Temple.
Another view of the temple.
This sign cracked me up.
I love the Chinese characters carved into the boulders.
View from Kek Lok Si Temple.
A wall of elaborate carvings.
The gardens were beautiful with all kinds of plants and flowers.
One of the gates at the temple.
View through a gate.
Beautiful.
This picture doesn't pick up the layers of textures and colors. There was so much visual stimulation that it was a bit overwhelming and intense.
The 99-foot Kuan Yin.
Statues of the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac.
View from higher up.
An interesting place for a statue.
This little bird was gorgeous. About the size of a hummingbird, it was bright yellow and black.
Street art near our guesthouse.
The sidewalks of Penang on our way to the bus station.
Our view during the trip to and from the butterfly garden.
I could look at this all day long.
The city from a distance.
There at last.
Butterflies and crysalises. 
One landed on my son's hat.
A beauty.
The caterpillars.
My son got to touch and hold one.
We were able to get really close to the butterflies.
I love the colors on this one.
An iguana at the butterfly garden.
Some kind of lizard.
Another landing.
This tree was full of butterflies.
A toad that looked like a leaf.
A tarantula carefully held by a member of the audience.
A scorpion under UV light.
My son got close and personal with a leaf bug like this one.
Another kind of leaf bug.
Down the street from our guesthouse was the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, which has 38 rooms. Cheong Fatt Tze was a Chinese financier, tycoon, diplomat, politician, and philanthropist who maintained homes throughout Asia. This was his most lavish and elaborate home.
The state art museum.
The playground across the street from the state art museum and Fort Cornwallis.
Love the architecture.
A cute European coffee shop, where we took a break from our walk.
Textile shops all over Little India hung richly colored saris and fabric all over their stores, which made for a colorful background to our walk.
The street fair we happened upon.
More street art.
At the street fair.
At the street fair.
More street art.
Upon closer inspection, I realized this was not drawn onto the wall, but was actually three dimensional.
The sunset that day was gorgeous.
A mosque at dusk.
The streets of George Town.
More street art on our third day.
Queen Victoria's Memorial Clock Tower.
A street fair on Sunday morning.
People would actually have these two characters pose with their babies for a photo.
A giant game of Chutes and Ladders that my son enjoyed for a while.
Cats made with twine or yarn.
More street art.
This is 3D too.
Seeing the sun set from the plane was wild. It went from bright orange to pitch black in five seconds, but as we flew west towards Bangkok, the sun actually came back a little.

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

The Help, Thai Edition

As we settle in for our second year, we're living more and more like the locals, including the slow accumulation of quite a team of people working for us. Well, we "only" have two right now, but later this week, we'll be adding a third.

First, there's the maid who cleans and does the laundry and ironing for us once a week. We've had quite a bit of drama with maids. In the one year we've been here, we have gone through three maids. The first one only cleaned for us twice before she quit an hour before she was due to clean for us because her husband needed her to help him with his shoe shop. It was the first time I had had an experience like that, so it really threw me off, and wondered if I had done something wrong. But a friend who also had her as a nanny/maid told me she wasn't very reliable; she actually ended up quitting on my friend too.

Then we got a Filipina woman who was looking for more work because her family had been severely affected by the typhoon in the Philippines last year. She was actually a full-time nanny for a German-Thai family, but also cleaned on the side. She was amazing -- reliable and hard-working. We loved her.

Before we moved to our current location, however, she told us she wouldn't continue to clean for us at our next location because it was too far for her to travel. I was disappointed. So we hired the woman who used to clean for the teachers who previously lived in our house. She loved this house and really wanted to continue working here, so we thought we'd give it a shot.

The first time she came, I asked her what she was willing to do, and she listed cleaning, laundry, and ironing -- all things I needed help with, which was great. She showed up at nine o'clock in the morning and was still at our house by six o'clock that evening, and she wasn't even close to being done! She took a looong time -- at least an hour! -- to clean each room. I also noticed she had the annoying habit of keeping me "updated" on what she was doing throughout the day: where she was putting each trash can and why, which windows she would leave open and why, etc. I really couldn't care less! We finally sent her home at 6:00 p.m. because we wanted to have dinner and to be able to relax in our own home without a stranger there.

Since she normally would be cleaning during the work week, when we wouldn't be around, we decided to give her more time. The second time, she didn't show up until 11:00 a.m. I would've preferred for her to get started earlier and finish earlier in the day, so I asked her if she could try to get started by 9:00 or 10:00 a.m. Well, she kind of flipped out on me. First, she told me she had 21 cats that she had to feed in the morning, so she couldn't come earlier. That alone should've been a red flag for me -- a cat lady gone mad. Then she went on and on about how I was putting too much pressure on her. She wouldn't let it go for the rest of the day, and every time she brought it up, she sounded like she was going to break out in hysterics. She explained that she wasn't a "professional" maid; apparently, she had been an executive assistant before she retired, and now worked as a maid because she liked it. OMG, I thought. WFT? I had the worst luck with maids!! And how could she have handled a busy corporate environment if she couldn't even take the "pressure" of being asked to show up for work closer to breakfast time than lunch time?

Still, I backed off. I would do some laundry during the week, and leave her one or two loads to do when she came on Fridays (each load is about half the size of one load back home -- the washers here are tiny). But then, a few weeks later, she complained that I "made her do too much laundry," and gave us her notice. When I reminded her that she had told me she would do laundry, she cried, "Yes, maybe five or six pieces of clothing, but not two loads!" Again, she almost broke down in tears! I didn't know whether to laugh or cry -- I would never consider having her help with laundry if it were only five or six pieces of clothing that needed to be washed! When she gave her notice, I was relieved -- I couldn't stand all the drama with this lady, who appeared quite emotional and a bit unstable. The weirdest thing was that she still stuck around to do her job until 7:00 p.m. that night, and even said she would do her best work for us that day because it was going to be her last time cleaning for us. Before she left, she said goodbye like nothing had happened. It was just so bizarre.

Right after she gave notice, I called our former Filipina maid to see if she was still available and whether she would be willing to work for us again. Luckily, she was still available and agreed to clean for us again. I was so happy to get her back. After our last experience, I was so grateful to have her -- someone who's "normal," easy-going, and drama-free -- back.

The second member of our "staff" is our driver. When we moved here, we arranged for a driver to come pick us up to take us to work every morning. We were supposed to share another driver, K, with another teacher (my current head of department, actually) who lives right around the corner from us. But, unbeknownst to us, K got cancer at the end of last school year, so my HOD bailed and got another driver (she still visits K and brings her food on a regular basis). K then sent her friend, T, to drive for us. There also was some drama between K and T -- T supposedly wasn't giving K any of the money he was making from driving her taxi. My HOD wanted us to give T only half of the fare we usually pay him, and half to her, and she would then give it to K. But I didn't want to get in the middle of all that and jeopardize our ride. Now T drives another taxi, so I think K is back at work driving her own taxi. But, as usual, we have no idea what's going on since T speaks very little English and we speak very little Thai (though my son is starting to be able to translate simple phrases and sentences for us!). As long as he shows up every morning, we're good.

Now we're adding another person to our employment -- a cook. A couple of friends have a woman clean and cook for them twice a week and said she was looking for more work for one day of the week. Since I'm also working full-time now, we thought it would be nice to have someone cook two or three meals for us once a week. So starting this week, she will grocery shop and cook a few meals for us on Wednesdays, which is extremely helpful because we have meetings and my husband plays basketball after school every Wednesday, and we always get home late on those days. She can cook Thai, Asian, and western foods, but we told her to cook mostly Thai and Asian foods because western ingredients are more expensive. Besides, we want to take advantage of her ability to cook Asian foods; we can cook western foods ourselves! When she came to discuss the terms of her employment with us, my mouth was watering with her descriptions of all the foods she could cook for us.

The best part is that we get all this help for only about $300/month total. We're getting so spoiled living here. It'll be difficult to live without all of this help when we leave here. It's been especially nice not having to clean the house ourselves. By next July, we will have not lifted one finger in cleaning our own bathrooms for two years straight! It will be hard to have to go back to doing it ourselves again. 

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Good Fun and Good Eats

Life here in the new neighborhood has been pretty awesome. With pretty much everything within walking or biking distance, we have so many options open to us. There's also more of a sense of community here, even though it feels more like a city than a village. And we love our new house, so we are happy whether we stay in or go out. We feel so comfortable and at home here, which is the opposite of how we felt last year.

For social gatherings, there's Baan Baan Bistro, a little, open-air bar/restaurant that's quickly become one of our favorite spots. It's the site of happy hours on Friday afternoons, Trivia Night, and Open Mic Night. Many teachers here play multiple instruments and write their own songs and music, and it's fun to watch them perform. It's nice to be able to arrange and attend impromptu gatherings, kick back with a drink or two, hang out with friends, and watch village life unfold around me.
Baan Baan Bistro from the outside.
A scene from the last Trivia Night.
There's also a monthly ladies' book club, usually hosted by one of the teachers who live in this village. I had been invited to the book club last year, but never got around to it because it was hard to get out here and the timing was always wrong. The book club is unlike the traditional book clubs; it's more of a book exchange. Because it's hard to get our hands on multiple copies of one book, we just bring books we've read (or talk about the books if they're e-books) and grab whatever books that others bring that interest us. I feel like a kid in a candy store seeing the piles and piles of books. At the last gathering, there were over 100 books to choose from. The book club usually starts with an hour of socializing, drinking, and eating. With good food, good company, and books, what more can a person ask for?

Then there are the restaurants, ranging from the casual food stall to the upscale fine-dining establishment. There's a food stall that sells chicken, dubbed "crack chicken" by all who's had it because it is so good and addictive. Then there is the casual place where no one speaks English and there are no English menus, but the food is amazing and dirt cheap. Two of my favorites there are the fried chicken (served only at dinner) and spring rolls (served only at lunch). If you ask for a beer, the staff will run across the street or next door to buy it for you when they've run out. We've also found an Italian place that serves fresh buffalo cheese and a teeny, tiny hole-in-the-wall with inexpensive, but amazingly delicious, Neapolitan pizza, salads, and pasta with fresh sauce. There's also Little Savoey, another place with good, inexpensive food. We got one order of fried rice, and two orders of steamed rice, morning glory, chicken with garlic sauce, and Chinese sausage, for all of about $7.
Murrah House, home of the fresh buffalo cheese.
Food from Little Savoey: Chicken with garlic sauce on rice, Chinese sausages, and morning glory.
But that's not all. There are all sorts of places we haven't tried yet: the Swiss restaurant that is pricey, but well worth it, or so I've heard; the Fondue House; the Chinese restaurant (finally!); the steakhouse....The list goes on.

As if that's not enough, there's also a new shopping plaza that is one big sprawl of all kinds of restaurants: Italian, Japanese, Muslim, Indian, Thai, etc. Now that we've moved, the mall is actually only about a 15-minute walk away. One of the Japanese restaurants we tried there actually had sushi that's about as good as what we had back home. It was a bit pricey, but oh-so-satisfying.
Paseo, the new shopping mall full of dining options.
Gyozas from the Japanese restaurant Zen.
A full meal of sushi, sashimi, pickled vegetables, and miso soup.
This area also has a wide range of coffee houses and bakeries. There's Lord of Coffee, which serves coffee, lattes, smoothies, Italian sodas, and a mean cheesecake. It's full of cozy, comfortable reading nooks. There's also Cup of Joe, which serves only coffee. Within less than a minute's walk from our house is Sweetaholics, which serves all kinds of desserts such as cheesecake, tiramisu, and ice cream. We also recently discovered a 24-hour bakery run by a Muslim family that has amazing danishes. And there are yet other bakeries that specialize in specific baked goods. For example, there's a bakery that makes just bread, but all kinds of it.
Danishes from the 24-hour bakery.
Lord of Coffee.
Beautiful and yummy treats from Sweetaholics.
Based on what we've seen and done so far, I predict we will be doing a lot of good eating this year! I can't wait to dig in some more!


Friday, September 5, 2014

Special Education, Indeed!

As a short- and long-term substitute teacher last year, I got a glimpse of what it's like to teach at an international school overseas. Now, as a full-time teacher immersed in the day-to-day life of the school, I see even more similarities and differences between teaching in the U.S. and teaching overseas.

First, I've had quite an adjustment working in a school setting again. My last full-time job, as a lawyer for the U.S. government, was a very solitary job. I was lucky if I saw another human being at work each week. In addition to that, I worked from home most of the work week for four years. I got used to, and enjoyed, working alone and being in charge of only my own work product and quality. Now, I'm in charge of a bunch of rowdy 10th graders, most of whom are boys, and I'm all in their personal and school business (I have to be!). And I see and interact with at least 50 or 60 people each day. Every day, I'm going from one classroom to another, helping the students and interacting with people from the minute I get to school until I leave the campus. I'm tasked with keeping track of what's going on in at least 13 different classes -- and that's not including my own class or non-academic classes -- what those 13 different teachers are doing on a daily basis, and how my students are doing in those classes. It's very, very hectic, even more so than when I taught in the U.S.!

The special education program here is different in terms of eligibility and support for the teachers and students. Many of the students in the program actually do have at least one qualifying disability as it is defined under American law. There are also others who are in the program in part because they are not doing well due to lack of motivation. On the other hand, we also have a few students with mental illnesses for whom our school is definitely not the appropriate setting. They're at our school because their parents don't want the stigma of having a child with a mental disability who really should be in a special school for such children, and because of their connections and power, the school admits their children.

Unlike in the U.S., there are no laws in Thailand mandating an appropriate education for children with special needs. Because of this, I've gotten some resistance from a couple of teachers on providing my students their accommodations, and the only thing that's keeping them from outright refusing is professionalism and my persistent insistence that the students need these accommodations. And the fact that students in the program pay a higher tuition just to receive these services.

Most private and international schools have very little in terms of support for these students. Our school provides more special education services compared to other similarly sized international schools, so many parents send their children to our school. Nevertheless, just like in the U.S., the amount of support for the students and teachers isn't enough for the level of neediness that exists among these students. For example, at the end of the last school year, we lost two science teachers and two special education teachers at the high school, but neither science position was replaced and only one special education position was replaced. So the students are needy, and class sizes have inched up a bit more (still nothing compared to the U.S., though!). Not a good combination.

I've also had to learn to adjust my expectations again. Like I said, I'm with the 10th graders this year. I only have nine students (a tenth student, who has Asperger's Syndrome, left the program because he didn't want to be associated with "special education"), but with each one with the academic capability and emotional maturity of elementary-aged students, it is very difficult. These kids are sweet kids, don't get me wrong, but they're like little puppies that have no discipline or training, even at age 15. The kids here are generally so much more sheltered and coddled, and are more naive than their western peers, so they really need a lot of hand-holding. I have to cajole and plead with them in every little thing they do to keep them going, like I did with my son when he was a toddler. And they are such whiners! Every day, all I hear is, "This is so hard!" "This takes so much time!" or (my favorite yet) "I don't want to carry this book home because it's too heavy." It really tests my patience, and sometimes it's all I can do to keep myself from rolling my eyes or making sarcastic comments (not that they would get it). I also had forgotten what it's like to teach people with such low-level skills, who are so concrete and literal.

On top of that, they're mainstreamed and in regular classes, learning alongside students who are academically advanced, because here, there are not different levels for each subject, such as regular or honors. In the U.S., these types of students would be in some type of vocational training to learn an actual work-related skill so they could support themselves after high school. But here, everyone at these students' socioeconomic level is expected to go to college. That's quite a bit unrealistic when most of them are reading at grade levels below my son and don't understand the most basic math concepts.

Still, teaching here is a lot easier and less emotionally draining than in the U.S. The students are easy to get along with. That's not to say they don't have their moments, but they're nothing compared to American teenagers. We don't have to waste valuable time and energy worrying about behavioral issues. We don't get the sense of dread that we did back home on Sunday nights. It's still a lot of work to be a teacher here, but being able to devote most of one's time and energy to actual teaching helps a lot in boosting morale and changing one's outlook.

That being said, something else I've felt since last year, and feel even more acutely now, is that teachers at international schools, at least in Thailand, don't seem to have as much of an impact and don't seem to make as much of a difference in their students' lives as teachers back in the U.S. Back in the U.S., I had students for whom school was an escape from their home life, and whose teachers literally saved their lives. For those students, having someone care about them and what happened to them mattered. My students here, on the other hand, have completely different life circumstances. Failing a class or school doesn't have as much of an impact on their future as it did for my students in the U.S. The students here would, and could, still continue to live their current lifestyles, with a household staff to help them in every aspect of their lives, because their parents can afford to do so for the rest of these students' lives. One family even said to another special educator that it didn't matter if their child couldn't get into university; once the kid graduated high school, the parents would simply buy a small company for him to run into the ground, and then they would simply keep repeating the cycle over and over again.

And the parents can always "buy" jobs for these students to do. There is a man in his late 20s or early 30s who is obviously cognitively disabled who "works" at the school. He doesn't really do anything and wanders the campus all day long, hanging out with teachers and interrupting their work time (I dread the times he pokes his head into my room and rambles on about nothing, but I'm pretty blunt about not wanting him around). Apparently, he used to be a student in the special needs program at our school, and his father pays his "salary" at the school just to get him out of the house. He doesn't need to work; his portion of the family inheritance is 10 million USD (yes, he has bragged about this). So for some of these students, education doesn't have the huge effect on their futures as it might for many American kids (and likely the poor(er) Thai kids). Rather, education for these students is more of an expectation because of their standing in society (regardless of how they actually did while in school).

On the other hand, I'm also getting an education and learning some interesting lessons myself, especially about the Thai culture and way of thinking, through class discussions and interactions with the students. For example, one of the 10th-grade English classes is reading "Twelve Angry Men." Before starting the play, the teacher (who's American) took a survey among the students about their thinking on various aspects of the American criminal justice system. On the statement that the death penalty should be abolished because it risks punishing the innocent, an overwhelming majority of the students were either neutral or in disagreement with the statement. One student's reasoning for that was it was "okay" if an innocent person was killed because the innocent person would go to Nirvana or that he would have good karma (I'm assuming the student was Buddhist, like most of the students at our school). Most of the students also agreed with the statement that a person of great importance and with a lot of power, such as a politician, should be exempt from jury duty.

In another English class, the students are reading a novel about a family in Nigeria that has a lot of references to political unrest (including a coup), trying to become westernized (such as speaking English with a British accent and the desire to be lighter-skinned), and social classes (including a discussion on poor, young girls marrying older men for their money). You'd think the class would recognize a little bit of their own society and culture in this story, but no, that wasn't the case at all. When the teacher mentioned the coup that took place in the story, and asked how that was similar to Thailand, she was met with blank stares. Outside of class, a few students told me that "it's good to speak English perfectly, with no accent," so as to "fit in" with western society. When I pointed out that they, being Thai, would always stand out in the western world regardless of how well they spoke English, they stared at me for a good five seconds before realizing what I was talking about.

The students here are very accepting of one another. I have a lady-boy student who comes to school in full make-up, with long, polished nails, and always carrying the latest, most expensive handbag money can buy. Yet, he has many friends of both sexes, and is known by all for his sense of fashion. The other day, his math teacher allowed the class a short bathroom break, and he went into the girls' bathroom along with his girlfriends. No one blinked an eye about what he was doing.

So far, it's been an interesting and fascinating, albeit exhausting, experience going back to teaching and teaching at an international school. As time goes on, though, I'm getting more and more used to the job. But it remains to be seen whether or not I'll return for more after this year, whether abroad or back in the U.S.